Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberacher are climbing over an impressive roof, right under the arête after which the wall turns west. They are making the first free ascent of “Das Erbe der Väter” (The Heritage of our Fathers), the route that Simon opened with Vittorio Messini. It’s bold and traditional, ground up, protected with trad gear and pegs  and involves sport climbing difficulties up to UIAA 9-. This is the way Simon likes it: modern routes climbed free. Pure alpinism, similar to the ethics of our forefathers. You just have to watch him climb. Just look at the topo. Just look at how the route picks its way up through the sea of yellow rock. Respect. Simon grew up just outside Luttach, in the Aurina valley. He has always been a hard worker, first on his family’s farmstead, then as a carpenter. His first contact with climbing, fifteen or so years ago, was totally by chance. He was hitchhiking from Dobbiaco to Brunico, and a climber gave him a lift. After chatting and listening to the stories and tales shared during that drive, Simon decided to give climbing a go.

Both of them were able to unlock the crux – four metres of exposed climbing up beautiful, blank, black runnels worn smooth by rainwater over the years. Simon came back in 2014 with Patrick Seiwald and again in 2015 with Andrea Oberbacher to work the moves, finally freeing the route on 16 April 2015. The valley and its cliffs made such an impression on Simon that he’s been coming back ever since. He went on to establish two more new routes ground-up on the south-west face of La Dorada: ‘Spaßbremse ’ (8 pitches, 7+/8-) again with Andrea Oberbacher and ‘Hart Aber Fair’ with Simon Oberbacher (9 pitches, 9+). During each visit, despite his focus and the beautiful climbing on dreamlike rock, Simon kept glancing at another rock face to his right. A big south-east facing yellow wall that had never been climbed before. It had a huge roof. The first time Andrea and Simon had a good look to scope out a possible line they were blown away. The wall was so high and so steep. Could that roof go? And would they be able to find enough protection, without placing bolts? "We climb the first three pitches up over sometimes splintery rock from left to right, following a crack system to a large dihedral groove that looks like the main obstacle in the lower half of the route. From a pretty comfortable belay at its start, we manage two-thirds of the dihedral. The climbing is hard, so we stop before we get too exhausted. After a brief intermezzo involving an Alaska expedition and guiding commitments, we return and get back to work. Reaching our previous high point, we climb on to build a solid belay at the top of the dihedral. The next two pitches are a bit more straightforward and we reach the big roof – which protrudes some six metres. It’s clear that the only way through is to climb its widest part. The shadows are growing longer in the valley and dusk is imminent, so we abseil off. Back a few days later, we’re up at the roof again. This time we took a short cut by following a narrow ledge in to start back where we left off, saving time and energy. So here it goes, I peg and aid my way out under the roof, my feet swinging wildly below me, to finally pull up around the edge in an unbelievable sequence. Five metres above the roof, I find the perfect place to construct the next belay. I’m glad to have what must be the crux behind me. I spoke too soon. The next pitch turns out to be a monster. There’s no way we’re gonna reach the summit today, so we decide to head back down.

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberacher are climbing over an impressive roof, right under the arête after which the wall turns west. They are making the first free ascent of “Das Erbe der Väter” (The Heritage of our Fathers). It’s bold and traditional, ground up, protected with trad gear and pegs  and involves sport climbing difficulties up to UIAA 9-. This is the way Simon likes it: pure alpinism, similar to the ethics of our forefathers. You just have to watch him climb. Respect. Simon grew up just outside Luttach, in the Aurina valley. He has always been a hard worker, first on his family’s farmstead, then as a carpenter. His first contact with climbing, fifteen or so years ago, was totally by chance. He was hitchhiking from Dobbiaco to Brunico, and a climber gave him a lift. After chatting and listening to the stories and tales shared during that drive, Simon decided to give climbing a go.

And he’s been climbing ever since. It didn’t take him long to decide that climbing, or rather, that specific way of climbing, was what he wanted to dedicate his life to. Or at least part of his life. He is also dedicated to Sandra, Iano and Iari, his wife and two children. This is why he inspires such admiration and respect. Simon is a man who understands the consequences of the choices he makes. He knows that his life is not only about himself. Every decision, including electing to open a route of that difficulty, from the ground up, on that rock, is tempered by a great sense of responsibility. The sun is starting to set behind Cima Ovest. Simon and Andrea are out of sight. They’ve reached the great ringband terrace and then the summit. The wind carries an exuberant shout of joy far towards the distant meadows of Misurina. A small flock of choughs flies past with complete indifference, heading towards who knows where. Das Erbe der Väter is a unique route. Without a doubt. It’s an innovative feat, opening a line of that level of difficulty using a traditional approach. It’s more than just a route, it’s a tribute to the climbers who laid the historical foundations of alpinism and a prophecy of the climbers who will envisage and create its future – on this same mountain – in years to come.

We return after a couple of days hoping to find a way through this steep, exposed upper wall. The extremely compact rock is riddled with fine cracks which are hard work to sit pegs in, but provide just enough small, positive holds for our hands and feet. This turns out to be the real crux of the route. The rock is so hard, it’s exhausting just trying to bang in the pitons. It takes me seven and a half hours to complete the pitch, build the next stance and then climb the last strenuous section to top out. Five days of hard work. Man, I was glad to see the summit. As I bring up Andrea, I start thinking about a possible redpoint. We spend a further three days cleaning the route, bouldering out the moves and internalizing the sequences. Then at the end of the third day of cleaning, I decide to go for it. The roof goes free, the moves flow on the crux pitch, and I’m able to complete the redpoint on my first attempt. Andrea joins me, sitting there at the summit is an amazing moment. Neither of us has ever climbed anything alpin as fantastically steep as this. We decide to name the route ‘Oblivion’ because the wall seems to have been forgotten by everyone else. We’re certainly going to remember it for a long time to come.” Simon and Andrea protected their new route ‘Oblivion’ with Friends, nuts and pitons only. It has no bolts. The pair took five days to establish the line, before Simon red-pointed it on 21 May 2017. The approach involves an easy walk-in from the charismatic Edelweiss mountain hut. The Edelweiß Valley is a secluded, little-known Dolomite paradise. Thanks to the south-facing cliffs, you can climb early in the season, from March or April, throughout the year. FACTS - Route: Oblivion - First ascent: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher, redpoint 21 May 2017 - Grade: 9 - Length: 9 pitches - Protection: pitons, one set of Friends, one set of BD cams down to size 2, after cleaning, the route was red-pointed, the pitons were left in place, no bolts were placed - Area: Dolomites - Group: Puez-Odle - Peak: Piz d’Ander (La Dorada) - Height: 2250m - Country: Italy - Region: Alta Badia, South Tyrol - Directions: Take the Gadertal SS244 to Kolfuschg/Colfosco. Follow signs for “Edelweisshütte” and park at start of forest road - Approach: Head for the Edelweisshütte, then follow the forest road to the left to the foot of wall (45min) - Start of route: Look for the south-east facing yellow wall with the big roof – you can’t miss it - Descent: From the summit loop down to the right, there is an obvious trail (#4) that leads quickly back to the Edelweiss hut - Characteristics: Steep face climbing with a big roof and strenuous pitches to the summit, rock quality splintery at first, later excellent

It didn’t take him long to decide that climbing was what he wanted to dedicate his life to. Or at least part of his life. He is also dedicated to Sandra, Iano and Iari, his wife and two children. He knows that his life is not only about himself. Every decision, including electing to open a route of that difficulty, from the ground up, on that rock, is tempered by a great sense of responsibility. The sun is starting to set behind Cima Ovest. Simon and Andrea are out of sight. They’ve reached the great ringband terrace and then the summit. The wind carries an exuberant shout of joy far towards the distant meadows of Misurina. Das Erbe der Väter is more than just a route, it’s a tribute to the climbers who laid the historical foundations of alpinism and a prophecy of the climbers who will envisage and create its future – on this same mountain – in years to come.